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You know the ones, the guys spotted and surreptitiously snapped on the subway with their heads buried in books. Yes, that day is upon us. Instead, during the past week, they raced across town through the slush, braving bitter cold — Lincoln Center to Wall Street, Hudson to East Rivers — and mostly the hectic commute turned out to be worthwhile. Unlike their counterparts in London or Paris, designers here tend to play it safe. This sometimes results in workmanlike seasons when you are more likely to encounter theme-and-variation changes than the riddles and explorations of, say, an artist like Rick Owens, whose recent collection was so upside down and backward that a wearer would be challenged to put Tab A into Slot B. Still, New York can be counted on for fun and good humor, and five years into his tenure at Lacoste, Felipe Baptista Olivera showed how much he has loosened up his design brief for the storied tennis label.
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